People Seeking Info

Subject More progress pics.
Posted by DVDBURN (MD) on September 21, 2008 at 11:44 PM
  This message has been viewed 955 times.
Message I didn't want to splice into wires to run my gauge lights so this is what I did.

There wasn't a relay in this location at the passenger feet...

so I took an extra Nissan relay I had...

and mounted it in the empty spot.

I ran a two wire cable from the coil of the relay to the instrument lights at this location on my 1990 gauge cluster. When you turn on the instrument lights these points become active and activate the relay.

I ran another two wire cable from the active relay contacts and ran one side to switched 12 volts and the other side to a positive terminal block. All the gauge negative light leads connect to a ground terminal like this one.

Radio Shack has these in a couple of different sizes. I like them because they are easy to use and provide pretty good insulation from outside contact.

Here is where the wires come from the relay.

This is the one which runs to the gauge cluster.

It runs over the air duct, around the back and out here.

With the slack pulled it hides out of the way above the air duct.

The one in my hand runs to the gauge cluster instrument light power and the one circled in yellow runs to the terminal block and switched 12 volts.

I had talked in my previous post about a kill switch which disabled starting the car and removed the injector voltage at the same time when the turbo timer timed out. Here is how I modified my turbo timer harness to tap off of the running 12 volts.

As you know, the turbo timer ignition harnesses are basically the same. At least the ones for Blitz and HKS are. The first thing is to depin the blue wire from the turbo timer units three lead connector which goes to the ignition harness and pull it out of the black sleeve.

Then, using wire strippers, I strip out a section of insulation and remove it.

Solder in an extra wire which will go to the kill switch relay.

Heat shrink it up.

I'm anal so I use more heat shrink on top of that :)

Next I put the blue wire back as it was before. I then took the new wire I added to it along with the turbo timer negative wires and put them into their own sleeve using a larger size heatshink without shrinking it. This gave me two neat harness branches.

Everything tied up neatly.

And there you have it. The blue wire of the three lead turbo timer connector stays powered until the car shuts off when the turbo timer times out. The yellow wire I added to it goes to the kill switch relay. When the power drops the relay opens. A momentary button latches the relay to let you start the car but only after you turn the ignition to the run position. In the run position the turbo timer blue wire is hot again.

Not the greatest pictures but after finding my A pillar was about to fall off from having broken mounting tabs I replaced it with a brand new one from Nissan. I guess they are still available.

I mounted my NOS button where the cig lighter used to be. I used black silicon to hold a large washer in place and mounted the switch to it. I use silicon so it would be easy to remove if I needed to. It was about the only thing I could think of at the time :)

And to see how much of a mess this all is, here are a couple of random shots of the work being done. Some things I'm doing here is just temporary such as the terminal blocks I was using to connect things for power as I worked and made sure things were working properly. Although all the wires look a mess, everything will be much neater after things are sorted, mounted and covered in natvar.

Thats it for now.

(Total Mouse Over Hits: a Lot)

Watch an ECZA meet caravan!

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